You can’t control the waves, but you can learn how to not swallow mouthfuls of seawater. Maybe that’s not how the quote goes.
Below is a video I made of myself, my wife, and a friend learning how to surf at Pacific Beach in San Diego. The hardest part about learning how to surf, and doing just about anything, is starting. I wish I started writing a second book much sooner than I did. It wasn’t for lack of ideas, as I have at least 5 ideas I could turn into books, but more so hesitation on picking a direction.
Once you stand up on a surf board, the rest is much easier, especially if you lean forward. If you keep most of your weight on your back foot, you’ll find yourself struggling to balance and moving in slow motion toward shore. Lean forward and you’ll pick up momentum and it’s much easier to balance, though I still fell many, many times.
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